Project Overview (0:00-1:00)
0:06-1:00: “Hello. Hello, I’m Chris, and I’m Mesa. And we’re here to produce another onboarding project with you guys. Um, so this one, we’re gonna be combining two of the workstations to create this, uh, slim design of a Howell Spiral candlestick. Uh, so we’re gonna be producing a turn component for the main candlestick and then the also the base back on our horizontal workstation. Um, so this will be a, a two part process in order to accomplish this project altogether. But we need to get some information about some of the things you’re gonna need before producing this project altogether. And that is, uh, you’ve got your blank sizes, so you’re gonna be, um, requiring, uh, two separate blanks. One blank is a two inch by two inch by 14 inches long to produce the candlestick in your turning center. And then the other one to produce the base is 5.5 by 5.5 inch square, three quarter inch thick blank. And that’s what we’ll put on a horizontal”
Material Preparation (1:00-2:00)
0:59-2:00: “And that’s what we’ll put on a horizontal table to produce the base. Uh, just so one of, one of each, the cutters that we’re gonna be listed here, they’ll have the, the order list on the files that you can download directly below this video. Um, I’ll have all this information there so you can, again, get the same information I’m, that I’m listing here, but you’re gonna need an inch and a quarter surfacing cutter, a three quarter inch classic plunge, a 90 degree V cutter, the 1.5 inch barley twist, a three eight up spiral, um, end mill, and a one inch diameter plunge cove and bead cutter. So there’s gonna be six cutters in total for both parts. Um, and you won’t use all of them for each component, but that’s what you’ll need for the entire project. So there’s a few things on the blanks though that you need to be aware of, specifically the turning blank. And so this is that two inch by two inch by 14 inch long blank. Um, we need to prep the end with a board hole, uh, that is going to be pre-done”
Turning Center Setup (2:00-4:30)
1:58-4:31: “that is going to be pre-done before we put it in the turning center. So that’s where the actual candle goes. And that’s a seven eight diameter board hole. And we need to board that down. I just did this on a drill. Press that board it down. Um, 1.625. So an inch in five eights, um, deep for that hole in the end. Again, seven eights diameter in preparation for this project. And then this guy is ready to, to be put into the machine, uh, for your flat stock. There’s gonna be nothing special pertaining to the part. Uh, we’re just gonna be holding it down today using double stick tape on a spoil board surface. Uh, so it’ll be pretty straightforward, Mason. You’ll do all the setup process processes for these. Alright, uh, let’s start with the turning center. Um, the reason why I say that is because after we turn it, um, I like to test the tendon that we cut to the mortis of the actual base when we go to cut the base second. Mm-hmm. Right? So when we cut the base and it’s sitting here in the machine, I can test the fit, um, with the tendon to that mortis to see if I need to adjust any tolerances before we completely remove that part out of the material, right? Mm-hmm. Uh, so that’s one thing I like to do, um, in order sequences, it makes my life a little easier. So we’re gonna do the turning first, then the base. Um, with the turning, we’re gonna have you obviously go through your checklist. And in this video we’re not gonna go through every single step of the, of the checklist like we’ve done in previous videos. Um, we now have gone gone through that multiple times. So you can review the first two onboarding projects or go back and review the actual, what was it, the six episodes of, of training that we put together, specifically episode one that went over all the procedures on setting up and finding a workstation and going through that checklist. Uh, and so if you’re unfamiliar with those processes, please review those videos. Um, but here we’re just gonna give you the information you need to set up and then we’ll actually show the cutting process just so you can see the flow take place of actually producing the parts themselves. All right. So with the turning center mason, we need to do something special, uh, to our turning fixture before we can mount it in. So let’s go, let’s go zoom in on that and take a look what we need to do. All right, so Mr. Mason, one thing we gotta consider here is the bore on the end of the blank. How is that gonna be supported with the tell stock? Okay. Mm. Because the opposite end, this is gonna go to our four jaw chuck. Mm-hmm. Therefore, this has to be supported on the tell stock, right? Yeah. Um, and this type of tell stock, this live center is not the right type of live center”
Cutting Process for Candlestick (4:30-10:00)
4:27-5:20: “this live center is not the right type of live center to use for an already board hole. Mm-hmm. So what we need to do is we need to switch out this live center for something else. A 60 degree, um, live center will work perfectly for this process. So we need to switch these out. Okay. Now, the proper way of doing it, I find a, an easy way is to use a one inch or inch and an eighth inch diameter wrench and then use it as a lever and it will just use it as a pry fork and it’ll pop it right out of that number two Morris taper. And now we can just clean the surfaces both inside and out. Okay. Wipe off first. Okay. Yeah, we don’t want any debris between the two surfaces of the number two Morris taper. We want that to sit, uh, pretty true and clean. So we’ll just make sure all those surfaces are clean”
5:29-6:24: “And then by hand you just, um, throw it in there pretty much. But yeah, just slide it in and give it a little, uh, a little force at the very end just to snap it in, just like that. And that is perfect. And that is now ready to use for this specific part. So that type of life center you’re gonna need to invest in, if you don’t have one already, this is a 60 degree live center and we’ll have the source of where to purchase this from, wood turners catalog.com listed on the files again that you download right below this video. Okay. We’re now ready to secure our blank in the turning center. Alright. Okay. So what we’re gonna wanna do is we’re gonna take this, stick it all the way out there so now we can get it out. So, uh, probably just a little bit less There, so now We can get it out.”
6:48-6:56: “Okay. Do that back in there. Line it up with the, These need to be opened up a little bit more.”
7:02-7:27: “Let’s see, can you put it in there now? Seems like you can. Okay. Not Right. Actually there we go. Little bit Close to the”
7:32-8:55: “Now because of the nature of the part that we’re producing, we’re creating a, a hollow section in this part. You don’t wanna put a ton of pressure on the tell stock just enough to support the material. So there’s no vibration, but we don’t wanna compress it too much or else when it loses that stability after hollowing it can break or cause a lot of chatter in our part. Mm-hmm. So we just need to, uh, be careful about how much pressure we put on the end of that tell stock. Okay. Now, when we get to the, the step in the checklist of verifying our XY position mm-hmm. We need to make sure that the x zero is positioned at a certain point for this part. Mm-hmm. Okay. Just so we have enough clearance and everything works out correctly, uh, what we’ve done is I’ve made X zero one inch away from the edge of the material. Yes. And so technically the first half inch of material is going in this fixture, the four jaw chuck. Mm-hmm. So we need to make sure x zero is positioned a half inch forward from the edge of those jaws. Okay. That’s the same as being an inch forward from the edge of the material. Yeah. Okay. If we were using a different fixture to where we could actually see and get access to the edge of the material mm-hmm. Then we’d still go forward one inch from the edge of the material. Okay. It’s the same either way, we’re just accommodating different fixtures based on this situation. Yeah. Yeah. So we’re gonna go half inch forward from the edge of those jaws to equal one inch forward from the edge of the material. Okay.”
9:56-10:01: “Well perfect. That part turned out beautifully. Now what, what, what we’ll need to do is actually need”
Base Preparation (10:00-13:00)
9:59-12:11: “Now what, what, what we’ll need to do is actually need to trim off two ends. Um, the diameters here on the top end of the cup and on the bottom end of this tenon are the same diameter. So I can use that to again, keep things level as I’m trimming both ends. Mm-hmm. So I’m gonna trim the top end of the cup first. Right after that bead on the top section of that bead, we’re gonna trim it to that edge. Um, and that will make it again, that’ll be the top of the cup. Okay. The next thing we’re gonna trim is to the bottom of our tenin. And this is what’s gonna connect directly into the base. Now the length of this tenin only needs to be about oh a half between a half inch and five eighths of an inch long. Mm-hmm. Uh, because the pocket depth is only about five eighths of an inch deep in our base. So we can just trim this back to, to get the length that we need to connect it properly to the base. So all that’s left over after trimming these edges is then a little sanding and then we’ll be able to glue this up to the base once that part is finished off as well. Okay. Awesome. So that’s part number one. Great job. Heck yeah. It’s pretty awesome when the machine does some cool stuff for us. Mm-hmm. You know, it’s really nice we’re able to just build projects right from the get go, but we’re not done yet. We still have the second part. Right. So we’ve done the turning, now we need to do the base. Mm-hmm. Uh, so we’re, we need to switch to a different fixture. Obviously I have our turning center open here because we removed the table fixtures. Mm-hmm. So we’ll need to, um, build this back up to a table fixture that we can use. Um, at this point I’m just going to mount an existing, uh, t slot table that I have. Mm-hmm. Even if you don’t have a t slot table doesn’t mean you have to use it. We’re just gonna use that as a, a spoil board fixture ’cause we’re gonna use double stick tape to hold this part onto that surface. All right. Okay. Um, what we need to be aware of is the cutter is going to cut through the material. Mm-hmm. And so the surface that this is gonna be on, it’s gonna be machining into that surface. Mm-hmm. So we want to have a, as part of a, again, a spoil board or a sacrificial table, whatever you want to call it, a surface that you don’t mind cutting into. Yeah. That’s what we’re gonna be, um, making sure that we set up here for our table fixture. Okay. Okay. Let’s get it done.”
12:20-13:01: “Okay. So we got our, again, our table surface that we can use and you’re gonna be using double stick tape. Mm-hmm. Um, I would recommend just two strips. One on either side would be no big deal. Okay. Uh, this part is gonna be held in with tabs. There’s gonna be tabs left over instead of just being, um, cut out completely. Mm-hmm. We’ll still have to trim those out afterwards. So let’s, uh, let’s play our double stick tape and make sure that, again, your, your table surface is something you’re willing to cut into. The other thing we wanna be aware of is this is really close to another type of fixture. This is our pin system mm-hmm. For our vacuum tables. And so I wouldn’t recommend, for example, mounting it around here ’cause we don’t want the cutter”
Cutting Process for Base (13:00-17:00)
12:59-17:01: “around here ’cause we don’t want the cutter to accidentally get too close. Like if it was here, the cutter may go outside of the edge and accidentally run into our aluminum fixture, right? Mm-hmm. So we don’t wanna do that. So yeah. So shifting it out like this and lining it up maybe with these groups, excellent idea Mason. That will give us plenty of clearance based on this situation. Alright, let’s see. Cut deep. There we go. Okay. On there. Still not deep enough. There we go. Okay. Excellent. Now what, when I was prepping this blank, um, I actually was to critical on the size, it’s actually five and a half by five and a quarter. Mm-hmm. And that, that won’t matter. The part is still a little oversized in, in both directions, so it’ll still accommodate, regardless if I was trying to put this within a clamping fixture, I’d wanna make sure these parts are cut to the exact size that it calls for. Mm-hmm. But since we’re using double stick tape, we do have a little leniency that we can, we can fuss with. Alright. Alright. It looks like we’re ready to now set up our XYZ zero. So based on the job sheet, again files that you download right below this video, um, from the front of the machine here, we need to make the bottom left corner our X, Y, Z. So Mason, you’re at the left side, the operator side. Mm-hmm. We don’t wanna accidentally make the mistake of saying this is bottom left corner here. Right. Right. So bottom left corner is here, um, closest to again the front of the machine towards the smart tool pad, uh, Z zero where’s Z zero gonna be for this process. Wow. According to the, uh, job setup sheet, it’s gonna be right up on top. So that is correct, based on the job sheet, the top of the materials are our Z zero, um, and the bo bottom left corner is our XY zero mm. So we’ll have to go through that setup process and then again, set up our tools to make sure we have everything ready to rock and roll. And now let’s cut this part sewing how we now have this mounted set up and we have our X, Y, Z zero going. Let’s proceed. Alright, Well, sweet. She turned out great. Yeah. Now what we need to do is we need to cut it out of these tabs. There’s four tabs here. Uh, there’s lots of different ways of doing that. I find the simplest one is to use a trim router flush with a flush trim cutter. Um, and we just have that bearing run around the edge and it cleans up those, those tabs beautifully and it we’re able to get that part out of there really, really fast. So a quarter inch flush trim, cut that out. Perfect. Now I typically like to fit these pieces together before I remove the base from the machine. Um, that therefore I can always adjust my tolerances on the pocket of the mortis if something’s not fitting correctly. But you can see here that they fit together beautifully and this is ready to be first sanded”
Final Assembly and Conclusion (17:00-18:00)
16:59-18:00: “and this is ready to be first sanded and then glued up and finished. Okay. And you can see it turns out beautiful when you glue this up and finish it. Now, one tip that I did is when I was gluing this up is I didn’t want to put a lot of clamping force on this again because of the hollow effect. And so what I did instead is I drilled and did a pilot hole and screwed the part together while it was, while it was gluing. And I can always take the screw out if I need to. Um, but then that’s hidden not in the weight, but that ties the two pieces nice and tight, uh, throughout while the glue is drying. Um, but yeah, that’s, that’s really all it takes. Well done, Mason. All right. Okay. I hope you guys will go enjoy making yourself some hollow spiral candlesticks. And again, you can get these files directly below this video. Just download them and it has the, um, job sheets and any setup information you need in the blank size and cutter list file, uh, according to what you need to pay attention to on notes for this particular project. We’ve covered all those in this video, but those you can review,”
