Turning Bay Setup (0:00-2:04)
0:05-2:04: “Hello. Hello, I’m Chris, and this is Mason once again. Uh, this is gonna be video three in this kind of two day training fast start training. So if you came here to two days of training, this is all the type of content that we cover throughout these two days. Um, however, you can also use this as a, as a quick review or if you didn’t have a chance to come to that two days of training itself. Today we’re gonna focus specifically on securing mounting, and let’s say running apart for the turning center, right? We’ve already done the two workstations here, the horizontal workstation and the vertical workstation on cutting parts for each of those. We’re now gonna go to the third and final type of workstation, which is the turning center. Uh, so we’re gonna, we’re gonna cover, you know, mounting a blank, uh, making sure we understand where XY, Z zero is supposed to be, and then going through the standard operations checklist like we’ve done in the other videos. All right? Um, and we’ll have you again turn some parts here. It’s gonna, it’s gonna be pretty awesome. Uh, but the first thing we have to do is we have to open up the turning Bay. ’cause right now yeah, our tables are overlapping over the turning center and we don’t have access to that workstation. So we will need to remove these table fixtures. Now these are specific table fixtures tied to the vacuum hold down or the sheet processing system. Mm-hmm. Um, and we have two tables that will need to be removed. You have the top spoil board table as well as the grid tables, the white grid table underneath that. Now we don’t have to remove all the tables unless we were doing a, you know, a 80 inch long turning. Mm-hmm. Today we’re only gonna do something about, you know, 12 inches long or so. So all we need to do is remove this first section, this first two foot section, and then we’re also gonna remove the last section, because later on in this video we’re gonna show how to not just turn a spindle, but also how to turn a tapered spindle and when and where that’s located on the machine. Alright. Alright. Done Deal. Okay. So we’re gonna need a bolt”
Mounting the Blank (2:04-6:34)
1:59-2:11: “So we’re gonna need a bolt bin, we’re gonna need some drivers and we can take these tables apart. Alright.”
2:29-2:48: “Okay. So that’s the top section. So for example, this table can just Yeah. Come right off. Why don’t you lean it right up against there real quick. Alright. Got another one right here. So we can do the same thing with that guy. And again, we’ll just remove these grid tables doing the exact same thing.”
2:52-4:20: “Okay. Okay. So you can see that completely opens up our turning channel. And so I’m gonna swing around the backside. You can can still see everything from there, but we have what’s called our headstock and we have our tele stock. The tele stock is gonna be adjustable to accommodate different lengths and we can also switch out our headstock to different types of fixtures. Mm-hmm. But let’s show you how to get a blank mounted in our turn fixtures so that we can discuss where to place our xr y and RZ zero. Alright. Technically it’s already set for us. We’re just gonna talk about where they already placed it. All right. So with our blank, um, in order to mount it between centers, we need to do a couple of things. Uh, first what I like to do is I’ll pick an end because we, the end that’s gonna go in the, in the chuck is gonna be self centering. Mm-hmm. And a lot of the time it just grips on the outside of that blank. So I don’t need to mark anything here on the end. That becomes my tell stock though. I need to mark center and give it a starting point for the tell stock. Alright. So I like to use a center finding tool, just kinda line it up with that corner, draw a line. And I actually do that with all four corners. ’cause you never know when your blank isn’t square. Mm-hmm. Um, or if it’s cut rectangular, then it will kind of locate for you. In that case, it actually is really, really good. I don’t have any like, double lines anywhere. Yeah. Trying to find a center. Um, everything is overlapping dead center for us, which is perfect. And I’ll just take an all and we’ll start.”
4:24-6:03: “So you can just start that and it gives you a little pilot hole. Alright. Okay. And then you can put, um, that will go as where the tell stock will support that, which is perfectly fine. Now to get this in the, the turning center itself, I need to adjust this to the correct length from my blank, right? Mm-hmm. So the first thing I like to do is I’ll actually back this off, so I’ll rotate it until it backs off all the way. Okay. Right there. So that’s as far as, as far as the tell stock can go inside of the mechanism. Mm-hmm. And then I’ll take this and put it up against my jaws, just touching against that face. Then I’ll bring this back until the tip just touches the wood so I know I can get my part in and out. All right. And then we’ll take our socket wrench and the four screws on the very bottom tying the tell stock to the aluminum extrusion. We’ll tighten those up. So now we know we can get our blank in and out easy enough. Mm-hmm. And we can always shift this forward, um, just by cranking the handle to accommodate different lengths or whatever fixtures we’re planning to use. Okay. So with this, this now fixed in a position, I’m gonna put this in between the jaws and we can crank this. I’m just gonna crank it and you’re gonna, you’re gonna see the jaws all self centering. Mm-hmm. Now what you want is you want the corners to go between each jaw. Mm-hmm. If it’s square and you don’t want the corners to go in the middle of the jaws like that. Yeah. You want them to go between, right. So we’re gonna fixture that. So it’s in between and I don’t need to tighten it quite yet. I’m just kinda getting it close. And then I’m gonna bring my tail stock forward”
6:08-6:16: “Until there’s no slop in the system. No vibration here, right? Yeah. So it’s just supporting and then we can come and we can tighten this up.”
6:20-6:38: “And there we have a nice secure blank between centers. All right. Okay. Now with this here, uh, just, just like the other workstations, we need to have an XY, and a Z zero for a work offset, right? Mm-hmm. However, on those areas, the vertical”
Setting Work Offsets (6:34-10:06)
6:33-10:06: “Mm-hmm. However, on those areas, the vertical and horizontal tables, we had to set up x, y, z zero. Because those could be in separate corners. The Z zero could be on top or the bottom. Yeah. It changes all over the place based on what you’re, what you’re producing here though, we’re gonna try to use the same advantage of what we did in the, in the vertical table. The vertical table had a fence Yeah. That made it so that corner was always the same position every time. Right? Well if you use that same logic for the turning center, we can technically think about where we’d place our X or Y and RZ zero. So it’s always the same location regardless of my blank size. Yeah. Okay. Uh, so looking at this, um, because the tell stock is the one that moves, it makes sense. We’d want to put our X zero close to the headstock because this is stationary. Yeah. This isn’t, this isn’t moving. So what we’ve done is we’ve preset this work offset for you in the turning center. Oh. So all you have to do is go to the turning screen, activate which offset you want to use. I would check your XY just to, just to verify which we have in the checklist. Mm-hmm. And then load your program and go. Alright. Okay. So it’s really, really simple to do this, even though we’re adding a fourth automated access, it’s like twice as easy to set up. Mm-hmm. So where we placed X zero, uh, as default for the factory is we actually found the edge of the material inside of when it’s mounted in the jaws. And then we went forward one inch and made that X zero. Alright. Okay. So roughly the X zero is about a half of an inch forward from the edges of these jaws roughly. Mm-hmm. Okay. Um, so that’s gonna be positioned really close to the, again, the headstock fixture, but it’ll always be that same location unless we decide to change it. Right. All right. What about Y zero? Where do you think that would be for why, why position? Probably right smack dab in the middle. That’s right because that middle, that middle rotation, the center of rotation will never change regardless of my blank size. Yeah. Even if I switch my fixture out, I go to a different, different fixture here or here. The center of rotation will never change. So that is correct. So the center along the y axis dead middle is my Y zero. What about the Z zero? Where do you think that’s gonna be positioned? Ooh. Kinda a trick question. That one. Have we not set it yet? Well we haven’t done what we call a smart tool setup process that you’re used to using. Mm-hmm. But we’re gonna talk about that in just a second. Once we, once we understand where we’re placing these Z zero on the turning center Hmm. It’s the same logic that we used on the Y axis. Okay. Okay. So the center is never gonna adjust um, or be different. And so we’re gonna make Z zero in the middle of the blank as well. Okay. So the Y and the Z axis technically are tied to a fixture that will never change. They’ll never have to change. Okay. Doesn’t mean that they can’t accidentally be changed. Mm-hmm. Right? Um, but that’s why we’re gonna check our locations before we go and start, start cutting all just to make sure that doesn’t happen. Um, alright. So if y and Z axis are tied to the center and x um, again is tied to the, the fixture here on the head stock head stock edge, all we have to do is make sure that the turning center is on and it and it takes care of itself for all three. Alright. Now you did ask, what about the Z axis with the smart tool pad, you know, setting that up. Mm-hmm. Well this is, this is a little different. We’re used to, if you grab that pad here, just complacent right here on the table for me.”
Tool Setup and Verification (10:06-14:56)
10:05-14:57: “just complacent right here on the table for me. So we’re used to placing this pad on a surface and then the machine finding the difference between this surface and the home plate. Mm-hmm. And so it finds whatever that height difference is and it automatically applies that to the tip of the cutter so it knows where it is relative in space. Right. Now what happened here in the turning center is there is a height difference between the center of rotation and the home plate. Mm-hmm. We’ve just found that for you. Oh. So we found that height difference and that’s been recorded in the CNC controller. And so whenever we go to our turning screen with smart tool on mm-hmm. It’s automatically going to apply this height, height offset between the turning center and the smart tool home plate. Alright. Without us having to set it up, it’s just automatically turned on and applied. Makes it a lot more simple than I was expecting. Yes, it does, like I said, it adds another access of automation but the setup process is twice as fast. Alright? Right. So Z Zero’s gonna take care of itself. All it has to do is touch off the cutter on the home plate and voila, it’s all fixed for the Z zero. The Y will always be dead center and the X is usually towards the headstock edge. Alright. So the only thing that would theoretically change in the future is if I change out my fixture, which axis would we update? The X axis. That’s right. So if I change this out for let’s say a mandrill or something else that’s gonna shift where the edge of X zero is to the part, right? So I need to shift that X zero somewhere else mm-hmm. On the machine. Um, then that’s literally the only axis we’d have to adjust in the attorney center. Alright? Okay. Um, you’ll see in, in the job sheet we’re going to be, I’m sorry, not in the job sheet but the uh, checklist, we’re gonna, um, go through a step on verifying XY zero on the part before we start cutting. Mm-hmm. Just to make sure if you accidentally messed it up we can catch it beforehand. All right. Because if this isn’t Y zero, let’s say Y zero is over here, the cutter’s gonna try to plunge down here instead of over the turning center. Right. So it’s critical that Y is dead center and that we didn’t accidentally mess it up. Alright, one more question. Yes. Do we have to zero the A axis that depends on the part that you want to use? Mm-hmm Lemme grab a part example and to, to demonstrate that. All right. Okay. So this component when we put it in the turning center has very specific surfaces that need to be lined up to the blank. Mm-hmm. Right? Because if I had started this with the corners up and then tried to machine this flat it, I wouldn’t be able to complete the whole process. Wouldn’t. That’s right. So I had to start this blank where the material was flush or square to the machine and that’s where zeroing up my axis would come into play. Alright. And so I can simply do that manually. I just rotate this with my manual controls just like x, Y, Z. Mm-hmm. Except I use a digital angle box. Oh yeah. You can actually see when it’s in the top drawer here. If you open that up, it’s uh, far left side, that little red box. That’s right. So you could take something like this, turn it on, zero it out on your machine, on a flat surface that you know is on your machine. Mm-hmm. And then you can put it over here and then you’ll manually control it until it reads zero. All right. And then you can zero out the axis just like any other, just like we do on the X and yxi, you just push the access button. Mm-hmm And it zeroes out the axis parameter. Alright. Okay. And then you can start the program and everything will line up according to those indexed surfaces. Right. Alright. However, if it’s a program that’s just all round mm-hmm. No indexing techniques, then it doesn’t matter where it begins. Sure. You don’t have to worry about zeroing out the a mason. You ready? Yes. Excellent. The third and final workstation. Now before we get to the actual checklist mm-hmm. Um, we’ve been referring to the job setup sheet, which gives us our normal information, right? Mm-hmm X, Y, Z zero locations cutters that we use. However, on the turning center we can create certain types of turnings using our tric software, which will generate a job sheet, right? Mm-hmm. That’s if we want to produce like a wrapped carving effect. Yeah. However, the turnings that we’re doing here on a day-to-day basis are not programmed using the TRIC software. They’re done in legacies turning software known as conversational cam. Okay. So that though doesn’t actually generate a so-called traditional job sheet. Mm-hmm And that’s because of how simple the turning center is to set up. Mm-hmm. You saw that by mounting it in discussing where x, Y and Z zero is. Those are never gonna change. Mm-hmm. Right? The Y will always be the center of rotation Z will always be the center of rotation and X will always be towards the headstock edge of the fixture that we’re using. So it’s not like we’re gonna have a different corner or a different Z surface we have to worry about. So that information won’t be tied to what we’re talking about for turning.”
Running the Turning Program (14:56-19:49)
14:55-18:16: “what we’re talking about for turning. However, we still need to know the blank size that we need to put in the machine as well as what cutters go and what tool numbers, right? Mm-hmm. And this is all gonna be found in the G code slash toolpath file that you load directly into your machine. Mm-hmm. So I have this up here right next to your, uh, checklist. So we can refer to that. You can see on the top of our G code, um, it states, oh blank size inch and a half, inch and a half by 13. Tool one is the inch and a quarter surfacing cutter. And tool two will be our rope twist, one inch diameter cutter as an example. Mm-hmm. Right? So when we get to the steps in the checklist, that’s where we’re gonna be referring to that information instead of a, again, traditional job sheet from Ventric. All right? Yeah. Sound good? Okay. So let’s have you start off again. You’ve done this twice already. Let’s do a third time this time for the turning center. All right. So we securely mount the blanket in the turning center workstation, which we’ve already done. Yes. So click on the turning workstation screen. Okay. Now select and name a work offset, which we are using the four jaw chuck. Now I see here that all of these have names and that’s to the chucks. Yeah. That’s a perfect example of when you put in different fixtures that the X zero would then shift based on which fixture you’re using, right? Mm-hmm. So you have one there called four jaw chuck zero. So they just put it right edge to the edge of the jaws as their zero. There’s another one with the four jaw chuck with the ring, the face plate ring that will shift the x axis forward. Mm-hmm. Um, then you have another one which is the four jaw chuck plus half inch. So they shifted X forward and half an inch away from the four jaw chuck. Mm-hmm. Just ’cause you can decide to do so. And then there’s another one there. For example, the small jaws with the ring, a face plate ring. And so each one are different X axis positions, but all of them have the same Y and Z zeros. All right? So yeah, but you can, you can name those any way you want and select and manage your offsets based on again, your turning fixtures that you’re using on your machine. All right. So just use that one. So now we need to check and make sure MTC tools are ready slash load the ATTC tools. Yes. So this one has two. So I think we’ll just go back and take the tools over there and put them into their tool holders. Correct. And which two cutters do we need to use and which tool numbers real quick? Alright, we need the surfacing quar inch and aquar diameter and then the rope twist at an inch diameter and the rope twist is tool number two and surfacing is tool number one. Perfect. Let’s load those in and you’ll be, you’ll be all set. All right. Now there’s one other thing that we need to correct on the tool numbers. You have tool number one, surfacing tool number two one inch rope. Perfect. Mm-hmm. However, there’s a tool already in the spindle and which tool number is it tied to? Tool number one? Well, let’s see, what does it say on the controller? Oh, tool number two. Tool number two. Okay. So we just have a tool in the spindle and there’s one in the tool holder. So if we say put the tool away, it’ll crash, there’s gonna be a problem, right? Mm-hmm. So we have a couple of options here. You can either go take the tool out of the tool clip or take the tool out of the spindle, right? Granted you can also reassign it to a different tool number. Mm-hmm And you don’t have to take anything out up to you on how you wanna manage that. Alright? Let’s just do the easy way of taking it up to MT CXY zero.”
18:20-18:57: “Lemme just say, I would like to release tool and plant my tool. Okay? Excellent option. All right. Now everything should be fine. You’ve now successfully set up the tools that we need to be and there won’t be any problems if we decide to start the program putting tools away, right? Alright, so you’re good, you’re all covered. Now we need to check the the offset, which we have a free tool open. Why don’t we use the laser, show us visually where the offset is and we can go release to it.”
19:01-19:49: “Yeah. And we can use really any tool to do this, right? We’re just visually checking the X zero XY zero location. Yes. To make sure it hasn’t been changed or is somewhere where it should not be. Okay. Bring our power over here, plug that in. Okay. This is tool number 12. Okay. And now we’re gonna go to two offset XY zero. Very good. Okay. So you can see where that laser is pointing, right? Is the laser look like it’s roughly in the middle of the spindle? Oh yeah. Kinda harder when that spindle. Little angled a little bit mm-hmm. For you. But you can tell it’s definitely down the middle of the spindle looking when you’re looking down it. Yes. And then we can see that the X zero is shifted forward about an inch away from the edge.”
Adjusting for Tapered Spindle (19:49-29:19)
19:47-27:05: “inch away from the edge. All right? Okay. Which is exactly what we were anticipating. So that’s all correct. We’ve now checked your XY zero, didn’t have to zero out anything, we’re just verifying. Mm-hmm. Is it correct? All right, now you’re good. Now we can take this laser out, the spindle, the tool, make sure unplug and holding. Then we can clamp. All right, let’s put those away. Okay. Now after we have checked the work work offset, now we need to check that the smart tool is active. So let’s go in here, make sure quick test. Yeah, the probe is active and you can also see the big button on the top of that screen. It says smart tool, right? Mm-hmm. So that with a big green light on there means that I will be touching off the smart tool pad every time I perform a tool change. Alright? Try this just so you can see the difference. If you click the smart tool button on the top, it will deactivate. See that? Mm-hmm. So now it will not touch off the smart tool pad during a tool change. Alright? So that’s all we’re verifying. Just make sure our smart tool is active and great get great test. Um, as part of that process is checking to make sure the physical pad is working with the probe light. Mm-hmm. Beautiful. All right. Now we turn off the rapid Z, which is already off from our previous previous step off. Perfect. All right, so now that we’ve turned off rapid Z, all we have to do is load the tool path. So right over here gonna open our thing G code setup files. Okay? Now this, I always love showing this ’cause we gotta tell the difference Our G code isn’t showing up in our flash drive, even though we know that we had transferred over to the flash drive, right? Yes. That’s because in the bottom right corner it’s only looking for.nc files. Oh. So if you click that dropdown, there you go. And then you can click on all, or this case text is what this one is. But you can click all. And there we have the two spindle demonstrations we’re gonna be doing for this video, the rope twist and a tapered rope twist. So we’ll do the rope twist first. Okay. Loaded that. Now we check the tool numbers in the G code we have tool number one is the surfacing quarter inch and a quarter. Just look back there. Yep. Looks about right. And then the rope twist, one inch diameter, which also looks about right. That is correct. All. And then from there we start the program. Yeah, let’s just turn on our dust collection and let’s watch it work. Alright, Perfect. Hi. Turned out great. Okay, let’s have you take that blank out. Alright. And then we’re going to go through this process once again, but this time for a tapered spindle. So we’re gonna, we have taken this same design just as uh, traditional row twist and we’ve made one end a smaller diameter than the other and it’s gonna come to a gradual taper to that smaller diameter. Sweet. All right. Okay. Now a tapered spindle is gonna include using what’s, what’s called our, our tapering adjustment. Okay? Mm-hmm. And that has a, a decal on there. It has 10 digits broken into a single rotation. Alright? And so you got one full rotation, you’ll pass all 10 digits in one, one full rotation. Um, the program when we put it into the controller mm-hmm. Is actually going to list out the amount of rotations that we need to make. Okay? Okay. So let’s load the G code for now. This is obviously one of the last steps we typically do in the checklist. Mm-hmm. But let’s just open it so we can see what, what it’s actually doing and what it looks like when we get to that point when running the program. Alright. Code. And then you get tapered rope twist. Okay? So right down here on line 13, you see where it says M zero right there. Mm-hmm. That is a pause command. Okay. Okay. And you can actually see right here on the screen this M zero active. That’s an indicator that will be flashing whenever we have hit a pause in the program. Okay. Letting us know that, by the way, I’m not gonna continue on until you push play again. Mm-hmm. Okay. So it’s an indefinite pause until we tell it to continue on. Um, in that pause line line 13 that it’s gonna stop on, it says bed, which means adjust the bed. Mm-hmm. 1.5 degrees. If you decide to use an angle, you know, a digital angle box, you can also just rotate at 21.2 turns or rotations of the decal handle. Alright? That’s a simple method that we’re gonna be using. Uh, the other one is you could also lift it up 2.12 inches if you have a a measuring device on, on the tapering axis as well. So either one works, we’re gonna be using the rotations as our counter with the handle today. Mm-hmm. Okay. So again, that will automatically take place when it gets to the pause that’s gonna be highlighted, the active light will be blinking. We’ll be able to then take that information, go perform that action, come back and push play and it’ll continue from that pause. And then at the end of the program it’s gonna have another pause telling us to set it back to zero mm-hmm. On the taper angle, right? Which is negative 21.2 rotations. So that’s the sequence that’s gonna take place when we actually run this, this tapered part. Alright? So let’s go through the checklist one more time. All right. And again, it’s gonna be really the same things. Mm-hmm. Um, a lot of these you can even bypass. ’cause you, you can already say, oh I know that this is good, this is already good. For example, checking your XY zero. Yeah. We already know. That’s good, right? Mm-hmm. Well let’s just go through those one more time. Um, and then we’ll run the program, um, for the tapering process and see, and again, see all that come together with the pauses. Alright. So we need to get one more blank. You got one already? Okay. So we need to prep a blank and get it in the turning center. Okay. So we’re gonna take that. So you’ll need to mark center. All right? Yep. One more up. Aha. There you go. Here we go. Let’s put that up. Take this. Mm-hmm. Oh, other side. Yeah, there’s a 60 and 90. Very good. Okay, so we’ve got that squarely set. Uhhuh let’s this in a, takes a little finesse with the fingers. Yeah, there we go. Uh, okay. Learning process. It is just gotta get some muscle memory down. Okay. Let’s make sure that’s nice and flat. There will be some extra lines there, but me, I, I tend to use my thumb to press it diagonally down on these edges right here. Okay. So just, and so I find that holds it down and in that corner using my thumb. Ah, see this is why you, this is why you have a master here. Okay. Then the next one.”
27:08-29:19: “Okay. Okay. And that should give you really close to a center and then we can use the all to give us a pilot hole for the tell stock. Right? If it was denser material, we could actually pre-drill it. Mm-hmm. But this is softer material. We can just use the all and it’s gonna be three drawers down. Aha. Would’ve gotten there eventually. Yeah, you’re good. Okay. Just take that and say right about there a little bit more. Okay. Just punch it in a little bit. Mm-hmm. And then I’ll, after I put it in, I kind of do a little swivel, it’ll widen out the hole for your tell stock if you like. Alright. This is probably a teaching moment I have missed slightly. Does this matter? Well, depending on the blank that you’re trying to produce in this case, no. Okay. You can actually see in our, on our original turning right? Mm-hmm. That we have a lot of extra material. I left an eighth of an inch of material on all sides. Mm-hmm. So that if by chance we’re off, we still have enough material to finish turning our components. Alright. Okay. So yeah. So we wanna get, again, we’re, we’re just kind of marking it the best that we can. Okay. But we have leeway built into our blink size. Okay. So I don’t need to read all this. Nope, that’ll work just fine. Okay. Alright. There we do. Well let’s widen it out a little bit. Okay. Then now we put it in here with the corners. Okay. Once you make contact, you’ll feel if there’s any vibration on the end and you’re good. Okay. So now you can tighten the head stock. Very good. With the four jaw chuck, you kind of feel it start biting into it. Yep. Yep. Okay. Beautiful. Alright. Okay, so step one of mounting our blank. Finished. That is done. Now we’re already in our turning workstation. Mm-hmm. We’ve already got our work set offset checked. Yep. We’ve already checked that our tools are correct because they’re the same. Yep. So the next step is just making sure that the smart tool is active, which it still should be. Yep. Okay. We don’t have rapid Z on,”
Conclusion and Next Steps (29:19-34:37)
29:15-32:34: “Yep. Okay. We don’t have rapid Z on, we’ve already got our toolpath loaded. Did we load the taper one? Yes. Remember for the, oh we did. It has the, it has the um, program. We did that originally when I said bring it up. That’s right. Mm-hmm. So you already did So yeah, so you do have it in there. You can even check the name it even, it even says on the, on the top section and if you go to the program screen here mm-hmm Right there program you can see it says tapered ah, rope twist G codes. So we can verify it’s the right one as well. So there’s a couple ways of making sure, making sure that’s exactly right. Alright, so we checked the G code. Now all we have to do is run it. So I’m gonna hit play so we can see this three step expectation just keeps happening over and over again, right? Mm-hmm. And after you’ve done it a dozen times, you can actually catch it. The machine is going to go to the wrong location before it happens. ’cause you’re used to where it should be going. Mm-hmm. Because it should be picking up a tool, it should be touching off and it should be going to XY zero of the part that we’re trying to cut, right? Yeah. Ah, awesome. Now that’s typically where the spindle will turn on and it would start cutting. Mm-hmm. However, we can see here on the controller screen that the, the light is flashing. M zero active light is flashing because the line in the G code right there, line 13 mm-hmm is M zero. And we need to adjust the bed 1.5 degrees or 21.2 rotations. We’re gonna use the rotations. That’s, that’s the easiest that’s pre-built into the platform. Mm-hmm. So let’s go show you how to do that Right over here on the end of the turning center. Alright, so this is the end of the turning center from the opposite side of the machine. Right? I’m by the tool rack looking down the turning center. Um, and we see that there’s this handle with a decal on it. And to make this adjustment we need to loosen up both of these tightening knobs on both sides of the turning center. You wanna grab those mason? Alright. They’re right here. Yep. There’s one on that side floor rotation and another one on the other side and one full rotation. Yep. And so that will make sure it’s loose enough so it can um, now adjust and then we’ll tighten that up after we make the adjustment. So how much do we need to adjust based on that program? What it said 21.2. Very good. Let’s, so 21 rotations. Let’s do, yep. So keep track of the decal and it also says on top which direction to rotate to lower. Mm-hmm. Or raise we need to raise. Okay. And so you’re gonna rotate technically in the counterclockwise direction. And that is 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7 page 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 15, 17, 15, 20, 21. So that’s 21 and the zero and then you go to 0.2. Yep. The top arrow is now pointing at the two position. Okay. And you can now lock that in, um, where, where it’s rested. Alright, we want to go, oh, wrong way. There you go. Okay, here we go. This way? Yep. Okay, beautiful. Now we can continue back to the controller and keep cutting. So now that you’ve made the adjustment for the tapering access, the 21.2 rotations mm-hmm. We can push play a second time to continue on from this cutting process. But before you do, let’s turn on the dust collection Alright. And make sure we’re going to um, at least help some of it, not make too much of a mess, but that will help. Okay. And now you can push play. Alright,”
32:50-33:27: “So we can see on the controller at the end of the program it hit another M zero pause. Mm-hmm. And it says set the bed back to level. So we need to go and repeat the adjustment of the taper, but in the negative direction bring it back to 0 21 0.2 rotations. Alright, so let’s go repeat that one full turn around that way. Now we need to go back and lower it. Yeah. So if you bring it back to zero then it’s easy to keep track. So there’s back to zero. You took out the 0.2, right? Yep. So now you just need 21, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 14, 15, 16, 18, 19, 20, 21.”
33:32-33:35: “Yep, that’s exactly right. And now we’ll lock it back in.”
33:39-34:36: “So let’s have you again safe X, Y, z and we can get that blank out. And that wraps up how to set up and turn parts in the, the turning center. Heck yeah. Pretty straightforward. Perfect. You got a tapered rope twist. Excellent. Any questions on setting up for the uh, turning center? No, it seemed pretty straightforward now and those checklists help a lot. Mm-hmm. They keep you organized and if we need to modify or update, update those over time to make it more clear, you know, obviously we could use some feedback from you guys but uh, it’s just right now it makes it so anybody new to CNC can just follow these instructions and you can start cutting parts on the horizontal, the vertical and even the turning workstation. So, uh, we’re gonna continue on with three more videos on pertaining to table fixtures, crash and recovery and how to maintain the machine. Um, so definitely look forward to seeing those and we’ll see you guys in the next video.”
